Duranbah bananza - Clean, crisp surf images.

March 17, 2015

I pull into the familiar car park and it's dark. The headlights over the Seaway seem to guide my way over to the island I want to reach. 
It's been a long time. Perhaps too long. The wind is suspect and conditions aren't ideal. It leaves an empty scenario and I anticipate filling it's void. 
5 foot and 9 inches of fibreglass and I are about to form a bond. A friendship so deep no one, yet everyone can understand. 
I paddle into the darkness and see a fin. Yet I feel calm. I see another fin and finally a pod of them and I'm thankful to share the ocean with dolphins. Before I reach the rock wall there is a rainbow lighting up the North. I look behind me and see a storm. Perfect. 
My feet run along the empty islands shore, like so many times before. A decade ago I was riding a piece of foam. Times change. 
I nosedive my first wave. I laugh and hoot at an empty left hander grinding it's way in front of the pipe as I paddle back out. 
I blow my next wave. I realise I am getting old and my body won't allow me to surf the way my mind portrays. 

The next wave I take off deep. My body naturally arches into the oceans lump as it pitches. I look around the barrel and turn on the shoulder, with as much control as my new relationship will allow me to. 
I ride the wave to shore. Walk. Admire. Paddle. 
As I make my way back to the car I forgot to lock, a human walking a dog gives me a friendly wave. G'day mate. 

I would surf naked if it wasn't for my embarrassingly small genitilia and society's views. 
I open the car, listen to my favourite band and write this terribly long status. 
The day has just started. But my love for the ocean is stronger than ever and I contemplate my next decision....
Words by the incredible and super friendly Stevie Lloyd. Stevie is an absolute frother and legend of a guy who will always drop in on you...... Yes I won't forget Stevie, you owe me two waves.!!!

 Do you have some creative writing you want featured on my site with some of my photos? Send your piece here jon@jonwrightphoto.com 

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