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November 20, 2018
Sitting comfortably in my armchair with a Jack Daniels in my hand whilst reading my favourite surf magazine, Whitehorses, I’m listening to the sound of waves crashing on the rocks whilst my wife lounges about gazing into the ocean. The sun is setting and the birds are chirping, it’s the first heatwave this year and it isn’t even summer yet. It was 37 degrees yesterday and the water was absolutely incredible!
There is a pine tree directly outside of our Airbnb with a plastic bottle suspended with string hanging on the branch, I notice a few branches up, there is what appears to be a childs Heman toy dangling in the wind. I think to myself, how on earth did they get there.
I’ve been a photographer for over 10 years now, well, I guess you might not have called me a photographer 10 years ago but I was certainly someone with a passion at creating lasting memories, it all began when I broke my back whilst surfing out at Kirra on the Gold Coast, during my recovery my camera took my mind off what was a huge trajectory change in my life. My life changed for the better and although there were heartaches and a hell of a lot of rehabilitation I’m extremely grateful and blessed for what I’ve achieved and certainly couldn’t have done this without my family, friends and of course my beautiful wife.
10 years on and I’m looking out the window, drinking my drink and reading inspirational stories from surfers across the world, I think to myself how lucky I am to be gifted the opportunities to work in the ocean, appreciate the rejuvenating qualities that refuel my mind, body, and soul with one of natures most amazing phenomenons.
There is something about the ocean that really centers my focus and brings peace. It’s almost as if it’s a form of meditation, watching the waves roll in whilst I click that shutter buttons seem to wash away all the self-doubt and anxiety and at times the physical pain in my lower back from all those years ago. The ocean truly is my happy place.