
It's been a long time. Perhaps too long. The wind is suspect and conditions aren't ideal. It leaves an empty scenario and I anticipate filling it's void.
5 foot and 9 inches of fibreglass and I are about to form a bond. A friendship so deep no one, yet everyone can understand.

I nosedive my first wave. I laugh and hoot at an empty left hander grinding it's way in front of the pipe as I paddle back out.
I blow my next wave. I realise I am getting old and my body won't allow me to surf the way my mind portrays.


The next wave I take off deep. My body naturally arches into the oceans lump as it pitches. I look around the barrel and turn on the shoulder, with as much control as my new relationship will allow me to.
I ride the wave to shore. Walk. Admire. Paddle.
As I make my way back to the car I forgot to lock, a human walking a dog gives me a friendly wave. G'day mate.

I would surf naked if it wasn't for my embarrassingly small genitilia and society's views.
I open the car, listen to my favourite band and write this terribly long status.
The day has just started. But my love for the ocean is stronger than ever and I contemplate my next decision....

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